Wednesday 11 May 2016
Overall Evaluation
When I transitioned from AS to A2 level photography, my aim for this personal project was to conform to the conventions shown in the Beauty industry but also challenge them when I felt like I had succeeded in doing so. The first shoot I did was in the studio, and I developed my ideas of the previous years work by using colour gels. This shoot allowed me to explore a range of technical ideas, however due to it being the first shoot of its kind in which I have done, I struggled with using my originality and also experimenting with my models. I wanted to explore a range of different shoots and enhance my different lighting techniques. I also wanted to conform my work to my beauty topic, and I want to look at developing my style and creativity. For example, I wanted to use a range of different props such as glitter. My next shoot was going to feature different accessories which I will stick to the face to highlight different areas like I have studied in my photography research.
During my next shoot, I decided to do the same type of shoot by placing accessories on models, but instead I want to follow the work of Elisabeth Hoff who I studied in my photographer research and place it on males. By doing so I hope to subvert the stereotypes and make a feminine aspect of beauty on a masculine figure. I will do this through different coloured backdrops and emphasising the face with the gel lighting. Therefore, I used a male in my class and placed glitter over him. This shoot was effective in regards to the colours that I explored and the way I adapted my gel lighting. Following on from this, In my next shoot I used diamond gems with more relation to the beauty industry. I used a range of different close up and portraiture images within this. I wanted my work to draw similarities to that of Rankins, with high key lighting and a smooth complexion. My aims were also to learn how to airbrush on Photoshop properly without losing pores and making sure that my image is cleaner and more crisp. I feel like the work of Rankin influenced me a lot in the beginning of my work, and I had stronger ideas to take smooth and cleaner images.
During my next shoot, I decided to do the same type of shoot by placing accessories on models, but instead I want to follow the work of Elisabeth Hoff who I studied in my photographer research and place it on males. By doing so I hope to subvert the stereotypes and make a feminine aspect of beauty on a masculine figure. I will do this through different coloured backdrops and emphasising the face with the gel lighting. Therefore, I used a male in my class and placed glitter over him. This shoot was effective in regards to the colours that I explored and the way I adapted my gel lighting. Following on from this, In my next shoot I used diamond gems with more relation to the beauty industry. I used a range of different close up and portraiture images within this. I wanted my work to draw similarities to that of Rankins, with high key lighting and a smooth complexion. My aims were also to learn how to airbrush on Photoshop properly without losing pores and making sure that my image is cleaner and more crisp. I feel like the work of Rankin influenced me a lot in the beginning of my work, and I had stronger ideas to take smooth and cleaner images.
In the next couple of shoots, I wanted to use the same model - but experiment with this style of beauty photography with different colours. I wanted to see if the difference in colours, for example - using a yellow to exhibit happiness and using a blue to exhibit calm and tranquility. Would change the emotions that came off. To progress from this, I used the knowledge which I have taken from the two previous shoots with Connie and applied them to work that you would find in a magazine. Having looked up campaigns for MAC and Anastasia Beverly Hills, I analysed the different shots that they use and the way in which they situate their models while highlighting the product they are trying to sell. I took on board the different positioning of the model. This was successful as I feel like my images did develop in such a way which led me on to being more creative about the themes of the beauty industry. Therefore, I aimed to subvert the stereotypes and Laura Mulvey's Male Gaze, and use men in these situations instead of women. I planned to use a topless male, and take pictures of him while he is sprayed in glitter - a stereotypical female object. Instead, I tried to subvert expectations and use a male in the situation of a woman. I hoped this will create an effective shoot, and I tried to experiment by enhancing the male form. I feel like the development of my work from this point onwards was strong as I was able to conform to the expectations of the beauty industry but I had challenged them several times along the way.
As I did not feel like the femininity was as strong as anticipated in this shoot. I then aimed to adapt this and do a different style of photography. One shoot which I came across online featured Colton Haynes being photographed by Tyler Shields, an american model and actor. This shoot subverts the stereotypes of the Male Gaze as it shows the model being clung to by a female who has given him love bites and outlines of her lipstick over his face. He is also being pulled about with his tie to show his lack of dominance. I succeeding in making this my most challenging shoot to do as I wanted to make it a self portrait shoot.
Overall, after studying the beauty industry and creating shoots which I feel all conform to the views of the beauty industry, I decided to challenge the conventions of the topic and instead place a male in the scene. I feel like this is one of my best pieces of work since AS, (the self portrait shoot) as the shoot overall was really successful. It allowed me to learn how to edit and airbrush on Photoshop to conform to the industry, but also challenge this. By placing myself in the frame, I was also able to learn how to take self portraits and teach myself new ideas. It allowed me to see how it felt to be airbrushed and edited in away, where myself was instead was how the industry would want me to look. This photography unit has opened my eyes in terms of the work that goes into the Beauty industry, and making it one of the leading aspects of photography.
Connecting Essay 5
Online Image:
Blue gel lighting illuminating his shirt and the right side of his face. The colour blue exhibits the feelings of masculinity, as the colour blue is usually associated with men. There is a strong light source on the opposite side of the males face, this lights it up and makes it stand out to the audience. The males facial features are also explored through the use of the colour blue, which highlight the males facial features. For example, the males wrinkles are shown with a tint of blue and a dark shadow. The males cheek bones are also illuminated by bright lights either side of the face. There are dark shadows at the bottom of the image, which make most of the males body in complete darkness. The photographer has chosen to use a black background, which calmly reflects the blue surrounding the males face and also creates a blue tinge behind him. The colour also conforms to the males shirt, which has been highlighted through the use of the blue colour. The shadows in the creases give the image texture. The male is looking at the camera, with a calm but also intriguing facial expression looking towards the viewer. The males hair is a plethora of different colours, which gives it texture but also makes the male feel quite rugged - enhanced by the shadows around his wrinkles.
Own Image:
The use of colour gels in this image explore the males sexuality, with a light blue on one side of his face but a strong red on the other. The colour red in this image to me connotes anger, enhanced by the models strong facial features and deep glare into the camera. The male is lit from underneath, by a beauty dish, which enables the audience to see the males clothes and his neck. It also makes the model stand out and not blend into the black background. The use of gel lighting from both sides light up the models face. However, as there is not a light shining down on the male we cannot see his hairline, and therefore it blends into the background. The males face has shadows, but not enhancing his facial features. Instead, the gel lighting bounces off of the males eyes and make his appear to like tired. The lights also reflect on the males eyebrows, lifting them up and making them appear demeaning. The males eyes are the main focal point in this image, as they are much clearer and reflect the light into the viewer approaching them to look towards him.
Overall, these two images are both similar but also very different at the same time. In the first image, the male is much more lit up through the use of a bright light on the left hand side of his face. In the second image, his face is purely lit by a beauty light which leaves the natural soft shadows and also keeps the colours the same. The colour gels are either side of the males face, which draw attention to the mid portrait shot, and in both of the images the males are looking directly into the camera. The first image appears masculine and ragged where the second image appears to be more sinister due to the bold red colour.
Connecting Essay 4
Online Image:
The model appears to be looking vulnerable, as she is covering her body and holding herself close. The only protection she has between the bare skin and the viewer is a silk blanket. This is shown through the metallic reflection it is displaying among the viewer. The models hair is wet and frizzy, which appears to be untamed. This gives the feeling that the model has lost control. The female is looking directly into the camera, creating a relationship with the audience. The shadows around the eyes make her feel weak and innocent, and it is as though she is looking into the eyes of the audience asking for help. Her back is shown, to enhance the feeling of being bare among the audience, while her hair and her hands are covering her front half. The formal element of colour is weak in this image, although it is still present with the red of her lips drawing the viewers eyes towards them. The model has her posture slumped over, which makes the image feel informal, but also allows the audience to see the model in her natural form. The model also appears quite pale, and there is a gradient of light to dark on the background, allowing the audience to see her hair lit up amongst the light part and the silk to contrast with the dark background at the bottom. The rule of three is explored in this image as the two thirds from the left are much lighter, leaving a blank space on the right.
Own Image:
Lighting is relied on in this image as it is positioned directly onto the model, and we can see a vignette round the outside where the edges are darker. This draws attention to the model, as she is the focal point in the centre of the image. The models whole body is shown, and her posture is quite slumped. This exhibits the female being quite casual and careless. This enables the viewer to explore her in her entirety and not just a closeup portrait of her face. The model doesn't have any makeup on her face, and therefore explores the side of the beauty industry which is untouched and natural. The models body has not been morphed into making it appear slimmer, and therefore looks more natural and conforms to the everyday expectation of a young healthy female.The model still appears to be beautiful, without the heavy reliance of makeup or Photoshop to alter her appearance. The background appears quite simple, with a soft nude shade of white as appose to a bright clean white. This means that the only contrasting aspects of this image is the models jet black clothing, on her pale white skin hitting the soft grey background. The formal element of colour is explored in this image through the models pale lips, and also the colour of her hair which reflects nicely onto the other colours in the shot. They all compliment eachother.
These two images connect due to the rawness which is explored through the models. In both of the images, there is a lot of negative space which makes the models appear to be isolated. This connotes that they are alone, and it is purely about them. There facial expressions seem timid, and they're also postured in a way that looks slumped over and natural. There is very little use of makeup in these images, showing the female bodies to be natural yet in both images they look beautiful. These images are both different in the clothing that they wear, as the first image shows the model to be naked making her appear weaker and vulnerable. Yet in my own image, the model is wearing jet black clothing which contrasts her from the light background.
Connecting Essay 3
Online Image:
Composition of the image shows purely the females face. The rest of her body is not shown in this image and it is simply a portrait shot. The photographer has chosen a black background, making the gold much more prominent and enhances its colour due to the massive contrast between this and the background. The image has been heavily sharpened, making the gold leaf stand out and also giving it the formal element of texture. This makes the gold seem like it is thing, however enables the flakes to come off of the females face, giving the image more of a shape and directs the eyes to the outlines of the females face. The model is looking directly into the camera, with her eyes glaring. They appear to be wide open, almost frightening in her look towards the audience. However, this is a positive as it makes the image unique and memorable in its appearance. The gold leaf has been extended into her hair, making her hair line appear more difficult to spot. All that is left of the females face is her ears and her eyes. The colour of the eyes is much duller than the rest of the image, but enables the gold to stand out. The gold is also very reflective with it appearing metallic to the audience. It is not perfect and holds many flaws but it also gives the image texture.
Own Image:
A medium closeup shot used to show the females face and also her hair. It allows the audience to see more of the female instead of just her face. There are dark shadows underneath the models face, as a result of a lack of reflection. Should a reflector have been present, this would have drawn attention to the models neck and the rest of her body. The model is alternatively shown to be illuminated from the front and the sides to light up her hair and make her stand out amongst the background. This works well as it explores the colours shown. The gold leaf is sharpened and gives it clarity, it also gives it texture amongst the models airbrushed skin. It makes the image feel as though it is beauty for the upper class, as gold is a symbol of wealth and purity. The composition of the model is placed with a tilted face, emitting the feeling of power and stance and gives the impression that the model understands what she is doing. The models face is smooth, with dark makeup around the eyes but also colour on the eyelids. This draws attention to an aspect which is widely explored in the beauty industry. The lips are also covered in gold, which explores the gold leaf on the eyelids and around the base of the eye.
These two images relate via the use of makeup. In both of the images, the beauty topic is explored via the gold leaf which is placed around the facial features which are heavily relied upon in the industry. These are the eyes, the lips and also the cheeks. In the Internet image, the models facial expression is much more bolder than my own image. This is because she is exhibiting a shocked expression, whereas mine looks more powerful and in control. The portrait of the first image also purely focuses on just the gold, instead of the models face. Whereas in my own image, the model is shown to be striking a glamorous pose as she is looking directly into the camera and her hair is lit up from the back.
Connecting Essay 2
Online Image:
In this image, model and actor Colton Haynes is photographed in a set of images with his face covered in lipstick kisses. The images are taken on a grey background, which enhances the formal element of Colour as the boldest colours in this image are the red kisses of the lipstick. The female is placed with her lips on the model, and you are able to see her wavy blonde hair which also sticks out to the audience. The males facial expression is serious, but he also appears to be quite intimidated as there is not much emotion coming from him. On the other hand, the female emits the emotions of lust among the spectator as her eyes are shut. This image places the male in a position stereotypically filled by a female, as there is women lusting over him. The camera is placed directly in front of the males, with studio lighting showing some soft shadows. These are particularly on the males face, with the cheekbones and jawline being carved into by these. This draws the viewers attention along this line to the females face, which is placed slightly off the centre of the image.
Own Image:
My own self-portrait places me in a position of being dominated by women. The image shows the male being held within the control of women. The females hands can be distinguished through the use of soft nail varnish, and also other items such as pearl and diamond rings. Placing myself on a white background, the image holds a lot of clarity as it feels clean. The use of colour is explored through the use of the lipstick on my face, and also the lipstick placed on the males lips. The colour red connotes lust and sex in this situation, as the male is being held by women. There are some dark shadows present, which are stronger and also show the light source is coming from the right of the image. This is because when the hand comes across the males body, there is a shadow highlighting this. The females arm therefore appears brighter. The male is seen looking directly into the camera, creating a relationship with the audience as they are able to look directly into the males eye. The males dark hair is also shown to be much darker than the background, which creates a nice contrast.
Overall, these two images connect due to the themes explored. In both the images, a man is being lusted over by a female. In the Internet image with Colton Haynes, the female is shown on the camera, allowing the audience to see who she is and place her at the scene. Alternatively, in my own image, the female are not present however we can follow the conventions and see the nail varnish and accessories - all of which conform to the beauty industry. Both of the images use a white background, and have shadows highlighting the males body - although the internet image is much stronger in this aspect. The themes of sex and desire are both explored in these images, therefore linking them together in the same style of male beauty photography.
Connecting Essay 1
Online Image:
In the above image, we are able to a male covering himself in glitter. The males eyes are closed in this image, creating no relationship with the viewer. This generally means that the model has something to hide however in this context, he could be simply shielding it from the glitter. The male is bright and also the main focus point of the image despite the glitter being thrown up and surrounding him. His body is very defined, with the ombre of colours showing the mix of gold and purple. You can clearly see the males body, which conforms to the theory of the female gaze. His entire body is covered in glitter, which enhances his muscles and also draws the attention of the viewer into it. The lighting is very specific, illuminating the males entire body yet leaving his arms in darkness. This draws more attention to the parts the photographer wants the spectator to notice. The glitter appears to be raining down on the model, which enhances his expression as we can see that he has just thrown it into the air. Using a black background, shadows aren't shown however it does appear to be more masculine. If it was a white background, the image would come across as having more clarity. However, the glitter would not have been as obvious and instead it would have relied on the formal element of colour to explore the glitter on the males body. Overall, I feel like this image is extremely striking as it looks at a male with a fairly feminine approach to her body.
Own Image:
In my own image, I photographed Josh to be looking directly at the camera. This enabled him to create a relationship with the audience as he is looking directly at them. The model is covered in blue glitter, which is enhanced through the patches between this and his arm which is glitter free. The lighting is placed in a way where shadows are present, enhancing the males muscular body. These shadows emit from the left side of the models face, and also on his shoulders. Half of the males face is in darkness, yet when you zoom into the image you can see his eyes and the edges of his face. This connotes that the male has something to hide as his face is in the darkness. The males posture is facing away from the viewer however he is looking directly into the camera, this enables the audience to see a side profile of the males physique but also the expression of his face. The formal element of colour is displayed in this image as the blue of the glitter is shown to be the only colour present. This enhances the glitter amongst the black background. The black background in the image makes the model stand out, and if the background was white the model would be much brighter allowing the spectator to see a full outline of his body.
Overall, when comparing these two images, they are both fairly similar in the way they have been composed. They both have black backgrounds, and use the formal elements of colour and form to enhance the glitter. Although the images use a feminine substance such as glitter, they are shown in a fairly masculine form due to the males bodies being the main focal point of the image. The lighting in the two images is fairly different, as the online image highlights the males body in its entirety, whereas my image of Josh focuses on his muscles to enhance the masculinity.
Shoot 11 - Work Diary
Evaluation
By looking back at my old shoots, I aimed to make this one of the hardest shoots I have ever done in regards to the structure and also ensuring it went well. This was also a self portrait shoot, in which I took images of myself. The reason I wanted to do this was to edit it, and see what it was like having my own face be edited to conform to the high standards in the beauty industry. For example, smoothing out the skin and removing blemishes. Making the shape of the face slightly thinner and longer is also a technique used commonly by the Beauty industry in order to give models the 'perfect figure'. In this shoot, I placed the camera on a tripod directly in front of where I would be standing. I got another person in the shot around the same height as me, which allowed me to check that the studio lighting would laminate the entire frame. I used a white background, giving the image clarity and also making it brighter with the lights reflecting on the backdrop. I then got in the frame and took several images to check that I liked the lighting, and I then placed the makeup on me to conform to the same style in the Colton Haynes shoot. In this image below, it is my favourite from the shoot as it explores the way in which the theory of the Male Gaze has changed and instead conforms to the Female Gaze. This allows me to look into the perception of males in the beauty industry, and create images which place women in the dominant role.
By looking back at my old shoots, I aimed to make this one of the hardest shoots I have ever done in regards to the structure and also ensuring it went well. This was also a self portrait shoot, in which I took images of myself. The reason I wanted to do this was to edit it, and see what it was like having my own face be edited to conform to the high standards in the beauty industry. For example, smoothing out the skin and removing blemishes. Making the shape of the face slightly thinner and longer is also a technique used commonly by the Beauty industry in order to give models the 'perfect figure'. In this shoot, I placed the camera on a tripod directly in front of where I would be standing. I got another person in the shot around the same height as me, which allowed me to check that the studio lighting would laminate the entire frame. I used a white background, giving the image clarity and also making it brighter with the lights reflecting on the backdrop. I then got in the frame and took several images to check that I liked the lighting, and I then placed the makeup on me to conform to the same style in the Colton Haynes shoot. In this image below, it is my favourite from the shoot as it explores the way in which the theory of the Male Gaze has changed and instead conforms to the Female Gaze. This allows me to look into the perception of males in the beauty industry, and create images which place women in the dominant role.
The above image is my favourite from the shoot, as I feel it is one that could be shown on the front cover of a magazine. After studying the beauty industry and creating shoots which I feel all conform to the views of the beauty industry, I decided to challenge the conventions of the topic and instead place a male in the scene. I feel like this is one of my best pieces of work since AS, as the shoot overall was really successful. It allowed me to learn how to edit and airbrush on Photoshop to conform to the industry, but also challenge this. By placing myself in the frame, I was also able to learn how to take self portraits and teach myself new ideas. It allowed me to see how it felt to be airbrushed and edited in away, where myself was instead was how the industry would want me to look.
3000 Word Essay
A
personal investigation into how the Beauty industry’s explored in Photography
Introduction
Beauty is defined as a combination of qualities such as shape, colour or
form that pleases the aesthetic senses, especially the sight. It is important
to study the topic of beauty as it is judged in everything that is seen today. Focusing on beauty in the photography
industry is particularly interesting as it is often manipulated to suit the
needs of the spectator. This is done through exaggerated makeup, contouring and
a heavy reliance on editing software such as Photoshop. Beauty is an extremely
important part of society as it supplies people with an aspiration to be as
they see on the front cover of magazines and photo shoots. In the UK, the beauty industry is
worth over £17 billion, and is set to grow 16 percent by the end of 2016. It
employs more than one million people and is one of the biggest industries
worldwide set to reach £200 billion across the globe by 2017. However, unaware
of the manipulation that occurs, society is changing its views on what they
feel is defined as beauty by the mass media production of the flawless and thin
models that cover the shelves of newsagents and social media accounts.
Brief History
There is an established
history in the beauty industry as it has been the foreground of photography
since its development. Harper’s Bazaar is an American women’s fashion magazine
first published in 1867. Aimed at members of the upper-middle and upper
classes, it assembles photographers and designers to deliver perspectives into
the world of fashion and beauty. Since then, Beauty photographer has come a
long way through the changing shape of society. Following this, other magazines
such as Cosmopolitan and Vogue began creating magazines to feature fashion and
beauty. In the early stages of the photographic era, these types of images were
produced were limited by the technology at the time. All cameras shot in black
and white, and meant that the model had to sit extremely still for the
photograph to be taken. This was due to the slow film speeds and black and white
film. The images were much more illustrative and formal compared to the modern
era as photographers were not able to experiment as much with their limited
resources. As technology developed, the influences in the images changed along
side it. Looking at the images from these times, they featured stunning models
with natural beauty, and were taken by using 35mm film for still photography. On
the front cover of the first Harper’s Bazaar, the image is a cartoon as
companies were not able to produce photographs and publish them on their
magazines. However, around 30 years after the first edition they published the
first photographed model. In this image, the model is shown to be looking away
from the camera wearing a corset, which has significantly shrunk the waist of
the model. This shows that even over a century ago, models were still shown to
be changing their body images to suit the desired look of the ‘perfect’ human.
Therefore, they were placing themselves in such devices which shaped their body
size and bone structure to gain a more desirable body. The image was taken in
black and white, as the cameras did not have the ability to capture colour
processes.
Looking on from this, as technology began to
evolve, the range of techniques used also evolved with it. Photographers were
able to use digital cameras, which meant that they could view the footage in
which they had just taken on the screen in front of them. Steve Sasson, an
engineer at Kodak invented and built the first electronic camera using a
charged device image sensor in 1975. Digital cameras nowadays differ
from their predecessors in the way that they do not use film, but capture and
save photographs on memory cards or internal storage instead. This means that
the images are instantly transferrable from the camera onto computers and other
devices to view and edit. Digital camera’s nowadays are available to buy at a
much cheaper cost, with the first camera to feature automatic exposure and
light meter-equipped costing around $225, which is $3782 in present terms. This
means that it doesn’t have to be professionals that take images and gain
publication, but anyone can use them themselves. It is not uncommon to see
photographers publishing their work on websites and social media accounts, to
gain publicity and be a noted photographer.
Review of Photographers
Photographers post digital
era began to manipulate the stereotypes and produce images in hope to shock the
public and overlook the traditional values of the industry. Heroin Chic was a
look popularised by supermodels in the mid 1990’s fashion. It consisted of the
models characteristics having pale skin, dark circles underneath the eyes and
angular bone structure. The look was photographed to exhibit the emaciated
features in a backlash to the vibrant and healthy look of models such as Cindy
Crawford. Corrine Day, a British fashion and documentary photographer,
photographed Kate Moss on her first cover for
Vogue in 1996. This
shoot was deemed as the turning point in the stereotypes of beauty photography
and caused media outrage with newspapers claiming that the images were
‘hideous, exploitative and verging on child pornography’. The public was not
used to seeing the effort that these models put themselves through in order to
achiever such a vision. Many models starved themselves and took such harmful
drugs in order to achieve what the industry defined as beautiful – imperfection
free, slim models. However, all that they are doing is harming their fragile
bodies and making them appear tired and ill.
Alternatively, in another shoot for the front
cover of ‘The Face’ magazine, Corrine Day responded to the backlash by
photographing a much more attractive image of Kate Moss. As you can see from
the image, Moss sets her own style by being photographed to be naturally
beautiful. With very little of if any makeup present on her
face, she is seen looking directly into the camera with a gleaming smile on her
face. There are also imperfections with the model having gaps in her teeth and
having hair covering her face. Yet the image is striking, as the model genuinely
looks happy and incredibly beautiful. With a contagious smile, Kate Moss is seen to be
shown in an entirely different light in comparison to the previous images of
her. This was a step forward in the beauty industry as it meant that
photographers could see such a new and iconic model in her natural self. There
was no need for airbrushing and makeup as you can see her flawless appearance
through the image. The image holds a lot of clarity, with Moss appearing very
vulnerable compared to other models within the beauty industry but it is also
striking due to it being on the front cover of an established magazine. The
photograph links to the title of the magazine, which is named ‘the Face’ as it,
is purely her face on the front cover of the magazine.
Contemporary Photographers
David Benoliel is a beauty
photographer who currently lives in Miami, Florida. Benoliel focuses on
capturing professional-quality photographs whilst also experimented with
post-processing and photo manipulation. Colour and contrast are the two
elements that are the strongest within the work of Benoliel’s photographs; by
using a dramatic and vivid contrast of colour it makes the photograph
interesting and beautiful. The use of make up and retouching has given the
models flawless skin although the way that Benoleil has captured this is
fascination. By using strong contrasts such as a midnight blue against the pale
and highlighted face, it captures the viewer’s attention. In these photos,
using female models to emphasise make-up and other commercial products has
portrayed beauty. Another aspect of the photograph that interested me was
the angle that they were both captures. Each photograph is different, one being
a longer and wider shot to capture the body and the other is a close-up
focusing heavily on the woman's enhanced features. David Benoliel is a great
example of how the beauty industry has changed in the way in which it has been
photographed – comparing it to those raw photographs of Kate Moss, he takes
models and conforms them to the modern beauty industry. The contemporary beauty
industry is forever changing and photographers work around the way they want
their models to be perceived to the audience. In the work of Benoliel, he
manages to capture the audience’s attention by using bold colours and models from
a distance enabling full body shots.
Jeff Tse stood out to me
for a number of different reasons in that no portfolio of his work is the same
or similar to any others in which I have looked at. Jeff uses a range of
different approaches to beauty, and incorporates fashion into it with his
diverse accessories and bold statements. Another reason Jeff stood out to me
was due to his range of different props he uses, for example, in some of his
work we can see the models grasping flowers and thus a very feminine photograph
comes out. However, in another aspect of his work, he uses much more unusual
items to portray a novelty approach to his work. In these images, he uses
different fruits sliced open being caressed by the model. Jeff uses a range of
different formal elements in his work including colour, form and he often plays
around with light. His work to me is timelessly beautiful, and his work is
influenced from a range of different cultural backgrounds across the world. The style of photographer
in which Tse photographs proves the impact that the Beauty industry has had
around the world and the way it has spread from its typical Western approach to
that of a more diverse nature. In this image by Jeff Tse, we can see he has
incorporated the beauty industry to appeal to a range of nations and he has not
just chosen the stereotypical Western model. He has also done this by using ranges
of different iconography from were the model originates from, enhancing the
ever changing nature of the beauty industry.
Rankin is one of the most notable beauty and
celebrity photographers of the century. Not only is his work extremely
influential in the beauty industry, but he also includes a range of different
styles in his shoots. Rankin has had his work feature in many advertising
campaigns and he has shot covers for the biggest magazines on the planet,
including Vogue and GQ. His work doesn't follow the stereotype of the beauty
industry, with bold lighting techniques and his subtle props such as the flower
and feathers hold a lot of connotations and meanings behind the image itself.
Rankin also uses enhanced makeup with unique designs and accessories to enhance
this such as gems and diamonds. Rankin photographs in a style of photography, which
has depth, but also does so in a way, which enhances Beauty in his style of
work.
How does your work fit in to this?
This image shows beauty
through the use of particular make up techniques and added accessories. By
using the colour gold and a bronzer to the skin, it adds a warm effect to the
image and highlights certain features, such as the cheekbones and lips. The
photograph focuses on the female model directly by using lighting techniques
and emphasising on the shadows around her face. This works really effectively
as it enables the viewer to see the female model is the focal point and focuses
on her face, while highlighting the aspects, which the beauty industry sees the
audience lust for. For example, the cheekbones to show the slim face, the lips
to show femininity and also the eyes to create a positive relationship with the
viewer. It conforms to the beauty industry as a female model has been used;
females are most typically associated with beauty via being on covers for
magazines. The gold flakes emit a feel of luxury and class, which targets a
specific audience such as more upper class citizens. This work relates to
photographs, which have been used in the Beauty industry as it shows a
glamorous young female model, with flawless skin and luscious hair looking
directly into the camera. It is an image, which could be used to promote a
Beauty product, such as make-up or hair equipment.
Another
piece of my work for my Personal Project, which shows the way in which the
Beauty industry has been challenged in recent years, is of this self-portrait.
In this image, we can see Laura Mulveys 1975 theory of ‘The Male Gaze’ being
challenged by placing a male in the place of a female. “Mulvey observes how women are
made into objects of male desire in cinema and shows, using psychoanalytic
analysis, how male pleasure is derived from looking at passive females (the
object).” –indiewire.com
In this image, the stereotypes have been challenged as there are several
women idolising a male and showing lust for him. The lighting is seen as
feminine, with soft shadows used and a white background. Usually, on a male
this lighting features hard shadows, which differ the male from the female and
makes it more noticeable. Challenging the stereotypes of the Beauty industry
show the ways in which it is always changing. It is more common now for men to
wear makeup, and the beauty industry is tailoring this to fit a more equal
world. In this self-portrait, editing it was extremely intriguing as it enables
the photographer to see the lengths to which others will go to edit their
images and make them more attractive. The male in this image is covered in
lipstick marks, and also has a few female hands holding onto him. This holds a
lot of meanings as it shows the males lack of dominance, being kissed by
several women but also being fought over. This image also shows lust, and
conforms to the more contemporary theory of the Female Gaze. This theory
explores the sexuality of the male, and subverts the stereotypes that it is
just women who are ‘gazed’ at by the audience. There is a new market forming
for men to be the forefront of the beauty industry, yet it is still editing in
the same style of a female.
The Future
It is hard to discuss the ways in which the
Beauty industry is heading towards, however it is clear that in the future it
will not be similar to how it has been in the past century. Since the beauty
industry was first established in the 19th century, it has been
mainly dominated by the perception of the women. However, due to the changing motion
of the industry and the way it is currently heading, it is clear that it will
be more equal in regards to using a range of different models and not just
conforming to the stereotypes. I also feel like sexuality will be a big taboo
explored, with many models currently being employed due to their LGBT nature.
For example, Caitlyn Jenner is set to feature on the front cover of Sports Illustrated
due to her recent transitioning from a male to a female. This is a theme, which
is breaking the boundaries and in the future should be seen as the norm. Due to
the use of social media and the ways in which the younger generation are able
to create their own images – it is also clear that the industry will cater
towards the generally more open-minded views of the younger generation. Social
media websites such as Twitter and Tumblr enable users of any age to publish
their own photographs and also create discussions about the images and views on
the beauty industry. Dominated by celebrities and models alike, it allows
people the opportunity to have their say and critique the views, which the
media industry portrays. Taking this into consideration, it could be said that
the beauty industry will opt to change its techniques and the way it explores
models to meet the needs of the spectator. Catering for the views of the
younger generation, and exploring an industry where all the boundaries have
been broken. With the industry set to grow 16% from the previous year in 2016,
it will have to alter its ways to suit the futures needs.
Conclusion
To conclude, by looking at the work of both
historic and contemporary photographers, analysing the past and evaluating what
the future holds it is clear that the Beauty industry is explored in great
depth within the photography industry. With the development of technology, and
the availability of these pieces being more common in the 21st
century, the Beauty topic has changed dramatically over the past 100 years. The
transformation between the first magazine front cover in Harpers Bazaar, where
the female is placed in a corset to conform to a desired body type and the raw
images of Kate Moss shows the ways in which this diverse industry is forever
changing. Both challenging and conforming previous stereotypes, every
photographer takes their own style of Beauty into account when photographing.
However, one aspect, which does stay the same, is the way in which photographs
are manipulated to suit the ideologies fixated in the spectators. Photoshop and
other editing softwares are widely used in the industry to alter appearances of
females, and they are now being disregarded by the younger generation who do
not wish to conform to these stereotypes. It is more common nowadays to find
men at the forefront of these body-changing images, with physiques being
enhanced and sculpted onto bodies to make them appear more attractive to the
viewer. Instead, all these are doing is body-shaming women in order for them to
change what is really the norm in society and alter what we expect of the world
around us.
Bibliography
http://blogs.indiewire.com/womenandhollywood/embracing-the-female-gaze-20150730
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